so, its one oclock in the morning and i am comfortably wired from the three cups of coffee that it took to keep me awake from pa to orange nj so i will write whats left of what i have completed.
with the shims on ther way i finished what i could. it should be noted that none of the local shops to me stocked these shims but max had them on their shelf. i wish max would take over the bmw of manhattan operation. a mc shop should be run by mc people, not car people. just putting it out there.
i decide to wrap up most of the oil service by buttoning up the motor. first the drain plug, all cleaned and with a new crush washer. never use the old one. my thread, no arguing!
then clean the oring seating surface of any residual oil or grit;
then use dirty engine to coat the rubber gasket side of the new oil filter. we use dirty oil because it has burned off most of the detergents in new oil. those detergents create a seal between the rubber and alum and make the filter a bitch to get off. more critical on spin on filters.
then you install the new oring on the oil filter cover and use dirty oil on that as well;
then you install the cover and torque it down! please use he-man torque specs. i charge 50 bucks to repair stripped threads. 72" lbs, i have not stripped out a hole yet.
then install the sprocket cover and then the shock remote reservoir. abs dakars only. btw, there is a stopper that the reservoit sits on to ensure it is properly positioned. what could happen if you dont put it back there? i was told that it would put undue stress on the rubber nitro line. that could cause the world to stop spinning and plummit the universe into chaos. so here is that stopper;
dont say i did not warn you!
alright, since the oil bag is removed we will fill it up later. you should make a not for yourself and tap it to the ignition key or speedo face or somewhere that it will not go un-noticed that there is no oil in the engine.
for the last part of this post i want to ramble on a bit about it. this is the lubrication of all pivot points. what sucks about this is that it is time consuming and unless the points were really dry and gritty or frozen, the customer will not likely notice. the next tech who works on that part of the bike will, he will be impressed. the customer will not notice. now, if you just recieved your bike from a shop and all the pivot points are over sprayed with white stuff
then congradulations, you were probably just taken for a ride and the lubrication of all your pivot points was done with a spray can and nothing was disassembled cleaned and lubricated. not to toot my own horn, but this a thread on how it is done correctly so let me show you;
first the rear brake pivot point. take off the foot peg mount removing the following three bolts;
sorry, i only took a picture of the top mounting bolt. the other two are on the bottom facing the deck.
then remove the rear mc pushrod retaing clip buy pushing the holder towards the front of the bike (if its installed right, more on that later) and pulling it free. then the push rod should pull free easily from the mc boot. then unbolt the pedal by removing this bolt and pull the pedal and its return spring off;
your parts inventory should like this and contain the following: foot rest mount plus three bolts (not in picture) pedal, pedal pivot bolt, pivot busing, pivot washer, return spring, pushrod and push rod retaining clip.
now clean them off untill they sparkle, lubricate them with axle grease and the threads of the pivot bolt with antisieze and your shit should look like this;
now assemble the same way you took it apart. you were paying attention right? the washer goes between the bushing and the frame. the spring orientation should be self explanatory. just look at the wear marks on the frame and pedal. also important, making sure the brake switch is positioned correctly;
now antisieze the peg mounting bolts and install that and your done with the rear brake pedal.
now for the front brake lever. this is the easy one. remove the nut on the bottom of the pivot pin then unscrew the pin with a flat head while pusing up from the bottom. you should be holding this ;
i havent seen anything this dry since my first wife!
clean it and lubricate it. do not forget the perch!
reassemble and thats that . you may be tempted to leave any excess residue as proof that you were there. do not. it will be a dirt magnate and will look like total shit in two days. also, if the customer does not see it, he will the first time he runs his nice detail towel over it.
next is the clutch lever pivot. for all intensive purposes, this is also a how to on changing your clutch. first off, spin your cable adjuster all the way in. what is wrong with this picture? how are you supposed to make an adjustment on the fly if you need a wrench to adjust it? hand tight only!
then using a monkey wrench, rotate the clutch arm counter clock wise to free up the nipple then release the arm;
then line up the slots on the knurled adjuster knob and the adjuster itself and pull the cable free;
next remove the pivot bolt with the nut and remove the clutch lever;
this picture really captures how dry this is. this guy would be scratching his head when his clutch cable snaps when he has had all the services. kids crying. be right back.