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Old 01-08-2003, 11:49 PM   #1
R-dubb
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Final Drive R&R Procedure

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Last edited by R-dubb : 01-07-2006 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 01-08-2003, 11:59 PM   #2
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Final Dive R&R Procedure

OK, so here it is, all the Do’s and Don’ts for changing out the Final Drive.

The usual disclaimers apply. For instance, do you really want to attempt mechanical work that puts your ass on the line, in more ways than one, risks damage to some very expensive parts, may result in premature drive line failure, and may disable your scoot for weeks or months while someone else cleans-up a costly mess? It is therefore stated that the author hereby recommends that each person performing work do so based solely on the procedures published by BMW in the R1150GS Repair Manual.

All supplemental information and comments are provided for background understanding only and are not to be relied on by any individual performing actual mechanical work. Proceed with caution and at your own risk.

Parts and Supplies Required (as specified by BMW):

* Replacement Final Drive Unit including Pivot Bearings.
* Drive Shaft Boot Zip Tie Fasteners
* Staburags NBU 30 PTM. Spline and Bearing Grease
* Loctite 270 Maximum Strength
* Brand-name hypoid gear oil, SAE 90, API class GL 5 (250ml)

Recommended Tools:

* Large Torque Wrench, >= 200NM (for Fixed Pivot)
* Small Torque Wrench, <= 5NM (for Floating Pivot)
* 30mm Socket (for Fixed Pivot)
* 16mm Socket (for Reaction Link)
* 12mm Allen with adaptor to fit Small Torque Wrench
* Misc. Standard Sockets, Adaptors and Drives
* Long Reach Flat Screw Driver
* Heat Gun or Propane Torch
* Packing Strap (to tie off center stand)
* Scissor Jack (to support rear swing arm)
* Flash Light

The Official BMW Procedure in plain English
Do’s and Don’ts: Wrenchin’ Retard Tips, Comments & Additions in Italics

Rear Drive Assembly Diagram from BMW 1150GS Repair Manual.




DISASSEMBLY:

1. Drain the drive oil.
It need not be drained but will save spilling it later cause both the ABS port and top vent leak.

2. Remove the rear fender flap (if not gone already).
Now is a very good time to strap the center stand to the front wheel.

3. Remove the brake caliper and ABS sensor and secure.
Note washer on rear caliper bolt; front bolt uses the ABS eyelet as a washer. Do not allow brake pedal to be depressed with caliper removed. You might slip a wood shim between brake pads to avoid this potential.

4. Remove the rear wheel.
Put trannie in gear to prevent wheel rotation.

5. Loosen the rear reaction link bolt (paralever strut) but don’t remove.
Support rear swing arm with Scissor Jack behind trannie on left side of swing arm.

6. Clip the zip ties and peal the rubber boot to the rear.
EFZ

7. Heat (max 120 C.) the floating bearing stud (left-hand 30mm lock nut and 12mm stud) to release loctite, loosen but don’t remove.
A heat gun is best (not a hair dryer). A propane torch will work fine at a medium/low setting. Apply flame only to the bolts to avoid melting finishes or the rubber boot. You can loosen the bolts while applying heat but be sure the loctite is melting to avoid potential thread damage. Actual measuring of the temp should not be required. The heat is only needed to melt loctite and has nothing to do with pressed fittings.

8. Same on fixed stud (right-hand 30mm bolt).
Remove the locknut first! Then loosen the left stud with a 12mm allen key.

9. Remove reaction link bolt; remove left stud; remove right stud while supporting drive unit. Pay attention to inner bearing race on each side.
When pulling the studs, be careful not to let the bearings crash on the edge of the bolts. EZ does it.

10. Slide drive with pinion shaft (U-joint section) to the rear to disengage from drive shaft spline.
Slide the drive all the way out, then down. If your going to store the drive unit. Zip tie the inner bearing races after the drive is out to prevent losing them.
Now is a good time to remove the rear shock. This is not required, but will allow more upward rotation of the drive shaft for easier alignment of the drive splines.


Photo shows shock bolt being used to support drive shaft perpendicular to transmission.




Diagram shows proper phasing of drive shaft. The U-joint lobes are mirrored on each end of the shaft.



REASSEMBLY:

1. Clean and pack roller bearings with grease.
The better the bearings are cleaned and the more grease is worked into the cages, the longer they will last. If the bearings are used and have pitted races, show roller indentations, or have blued due to over heating, replace the bearings. Use any good solvent to clean the bearings. Do not remove the roller cages or bearings from the outer race. The inner race comes out easily and should be removed for cleaning and repacking. New bearings do not require cleaning or repacking. If they drop or become separated later, re-clean and repack unless you’re sure no sand or metal has gotten in.

Overheated bearing race has blued and shows indentations from being over torqued previously.



2. Clean and coat drive shaft and pinion shaft splines with grease.
Now is when you “Phase” the U-joints. Before greasing the splines remove the pinion shaft (U-joint section) from the drive unit by carefully prying outward with a large, flat screw driver. It should pop fairly easily. Then align the splines with the drive shaft to phase the U-joint. The position of the lobes to the front of the U-joint must match the position of the rear most facing lobes of the drive shaft U-joint, deep with-in the housing where it meets the back of the trannie. Use a flash light and move the drive shaft up and perpendicular to the back of the trannie to see the exact position of the lobes. The splines only meet one way and the U-joint should be turned 180 degrees if they don’t match up. When matched, mark a convenient spot on both pieces with a scratch or indent. Remove the pinion shaft and grease both ends and both sockets. I don't use the BMW grease cause it's hard to find. I used a Moly type, high preasure, CV joint grease. Insert the shaft into the final drive and give it a soft hammer blow to reseat. Make sure it is fully seated and does not pull back out by hand.

Pinion shaft “pops” free when pried from Final Drive with a long, stout screwdriver.



Pinion shaft phased with drive shaft. Note circular U-joint fitting can be visually matched by looking
deep into the shaft housing at the right angle with a bright light.



3. Place rubber boot in position on drive unit.
Don’t forget to do this or feel stupid in about two minutes.

4. Clean both bearing studs with acetone and apply high strength loctite to threads of each stud.
Cleaning the studs and the housing threads is important. Particularly the left, or floating stud. When clean, test the studs in the housing to be sure they screw all the way with no resistance. If rough, clean again and run from the inside out to de-burr any rough threads. The left stud must turn freely to properly preload the tapered bearings. The floating, or left stud, preloads both sides. Apply a single bead of loctite, lengthwise on the right, bolt. I am told (via the Pelican R11S Forum) that BMW has issued a service bulletin recommending that the left stud not be treated with loctite to facilitate later re-torque. I have not seen the bulletin or verified it with a dealer.

5. Align U-joints and slide final drive splines into drive shaft socket.
To insert the splines matching prior marks, the drive shaft should be held parallel by carefully inserting a screwdrive through the right pivot hole in the drive shaft housing. Use the screw driver to hold up the shaft while moving the housing into place.

6. Install right, fixed stud bolt to engage inner bearing race (Do not allow stud to pinch the outside edge of bearings) finger tight.
The right pivot stud must line up straight through the bearing race. If the stud pinches the bearings or the plastic bearing cage, the bearing is ruined and must be replaced. Make sure the right stud has seated before installing the left. To replace bearings, heat the housing lightly and drive the bearing out with a socket and extension that closely match the outer diameter. Replace in the same fashion. Do not try to extract bearing races with a pry bar or screw driver.

Pivot bearings can be pressed free with a properly sized
socket and extension. Light heat may be applied if needed.




7. Similarly, install left floating stud without tightening.
The left stud should only be run about half way into place. You can hand screw all the way in and then back out about five turns if you want.

8. Torque right stud bolt to 160Nm. (118ftlb.)
When the right stud is torqued, the left stud must not fully seat or the bearings will be over-loaded and ruined. If the left stud is tight after torqueing the right side, you’ve done it wrong and need to re-inspect the bearings carefully. Replacement likely.

9. Tighten left floating stud (without lock nut) to 7Nm. (5.2ftlb.)
The left stud is torqued lightly (5ftlb.) to pre-load the tapered bearings. Like a steering head. The drive should pivot evenly, and without snags. If the bearings are under torqued, slight rear wheel wobble will result. If over torqued, they will over heat and wear rapidly. Since 5 ftlbs is difficult to set on a large bolt, most mechanics do this step by feel. For a torque wrench to work, the threads must be very smooth and any locktite must be very soft. A little too tight may be better than a little too loose, but way too tight is not OK.

10. Torque lock nut (left) to 160Nm.
Make sure the stud does not rotate while torquing the lock nut.

11. Install reation link bolt finger tight.
Put the shock back on now. Top bolt: 50Nm (37ftlb.). Bottom bolt: 58Nm (43ftlb.). Do not tighten the reaction link fully at this time.

12. Replace zip-ties on rubber boot.
You don’t need OEM parts. Any zip ties long enough will do.

13. Reinstall rear wheel with two stage torque, 72Nm (53ftlb.), then 105Nm (77ftlb.).
I place a wedge under the wheel to raise into position. Alternate bolts.

14. Reinstall brake caliper bolts. Torque to 40Nm (30ftlb.) and install ABS sensor.
Don’t forget the ABS shims. Ease the caliper on to avoid opening the pads too wide. Check brakes and bleed if required. Since the caliper is going on the same rotors there should be no reason to adjust the ABS gap, but it should be checked.

15. Load 87kg (187lb.) onto free standing motorcycle and torque reation link bolt to 43Nm. (32ftlb.)
A heavy person sitting on the bike is required for this step. It is important to preload the strut, or it won’t operate in the correct flexibility range.


16. Fill final drive with 250ml gear oil.
Fill the drive to the bottom of the filler port threads. I use BMW synth. Some folks say to break-in a new drive with conventional gear oil. I don’t agree.

Test Ride and Laugh Your Ass Off!

When all else fails……




Last edited by R-dubb : 02-13-2003 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 01-09-2003, 12:08 AM   #3
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Well done, my man!
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Old 01-09-2003, 08:26 AM   #4
Ricardo Kuhn
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Exelente
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Old 01-09-2003, 09:07 AM   #5
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Good Job!
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Old 01-10-2003, 02:59 PM   #6
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Where did you guys find the 12 mm hex socket?
I cant seem to find any larger than 10mm

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Old 01-10-2003, 03:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Said Santa:
Where did you guys find the 12 mm hex socket?
I cant seem to find any larger than 10mm

Santa


Yeah,

They're hard as hell to find. S*K Tools is the most available. Can you believe even Sears doesn't carry that kind of stuff any more. I got mine at a little shop in Daily City. They had it in stock.

Tool Mart
7339 Mission
(650) 992-5730

BTW - You can use mine if ya want.


R-dubb

Last edited by R-dubb : 01-10-2003 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 01-10-2003, 04:45 PM   #8
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Thanks for take'n the time to rip apart yur bike and do the write up. I hope to use yur info in the next year.
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Old 01-12-2003, 12:44 PM   #9
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Very excellent writeup. I installed mine last night and it runs like a kitten. 12mm HEX - SK tools from a small local auto shop (no spam just info - Baxters)- big $$ for a single item but hey its got a lifetime guarantee and they had it.
Since I didn't have a 180lb load to preload the suspension for the reaction link - I took a ratchet tiedown through the rear wheel and over the tool space - I cranked it down about 4" or so. Worked great - took care to make sure the tiedown wasn't pulling sideways on any of the spoke nubs... but overall it worked very well as a way to preload the shock.
Time for a

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Old 01-12-2003, 01:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Said Snail-Darter:
Very excellent writeup. I installed mine last night and it runs like a kitten. 12mm HEX - SK tools from a small local auto shop (no spam just info - Baxters)- big $$ for a single item but hey its got a lifetime guarantee and they had it.
Since I didn't have a 180lb load to preload the suspension for the reaction link - I took a ratchet tiedown through the rear wheel and over the tool space - I cranked it down about 4" or so. Worked great - took care to make sure the tiedown wasn't pulling sideways on any of the spoke nubs... but overall it worked very well as a way to preload the shock.
Time for a


exelent IDEA,for the lonelly penny teck archives.Good job,rick ad it to the procedure.
the way I did it is I adjust the torque arm with out the shock on,and"EYE ball" the angle,works fine too
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Old 01-12-2003, 05:28 PM   #11
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Thanks for the offer R-Dubb.
Likely I will take you up on the offer in a week or so when I return from Finland.

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Old 01-18-2003, 08:42 AM   #12
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for tools, I'd add a 24" breaker bar with a pivoting head, needed for loosening the pivot bolts (you can just stand on the end of the bar to break the bolts). Less than $10 at Harbor Freight. The 12mm hex sockets are available at a good auto supply store.
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Old 01-18-2003, 09:08 AM   #13
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12mm hex

I just bought a 12 mm hex wrench at Sears (it was evening and I couldn't find one anywhere else) and hacked about an inch and a half section and use a 12 mm socket on it. I probably have enough of the original wrench left to make 2 or 4 more stubs depending on how long I cut them.
In reference to Reassembly step 10: I also made a 30mm torque adapter out of the box end of a Husky 30mm combination wrench so I can hold the pivot bolt with the hex and torque the locknut at the same time. Kinda anal, but I am.
(I think it was 30mm. Husky is cheaper than Crapsman and not as chunky as Harbor Freight tools.)
Thanks R-Dubb for the writeup! I could've used it two years ago.


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Old 02-08-2003, 02:08 PM   #14
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Post install leakage found

Post install I had leakage - couldn't tell where it was coming from since it only happened warm and with the wind blowing the stuff around made it hard to track. Ended up coming from the ABS port - the new final drive arrived without the O-rings in the ABS port and I missed that upon re-install.

So in complete indifference to the quote
"It is better to seem a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt"

Don't forget the f-stupid o-rings on the ABS feedthrough.
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Old 02-09-2003, 03:32 PM   #15
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What a difference! Installed the 3.2 drive and it's like a new bike. My stock final had a lot of play so I am glad I swapped it before failure.
Thanks R-dubb for loan of the tool.
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Old 02-11-2003, 10:58 AM   #16
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Thumb Thanks a bunch R-dubb

Exellent write up
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Old 02-11-2003, 11:37 AM   #17
Ricardo Kuhn
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some photos

from a final drive installation that I perform ussing the most current data and procedures..

the "deep troat" shot,is very deep in there.you need light,lots of lights



TAKE the SHOCK lower bolt.will make your life much,much easier,that way you can move the whole thing to be perpenticular.




ricky trying to introduce the tip of the acticulated joing,into the shaft.

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Old 02-11-2003, 02:33 PM   #18
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Old 02-11-2003, 06:33 PM   #19
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Nice photos Ricky

After seeing your post of some pics, you motivated me to post the pictures I had taken way back when. I edited the original post and inserted photos along the way. Hopefully that won't make the post too hard to print.

I'm glad a few folks are finding the procedure helpful.


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Old 02-11-2003, 06:43 PM   #20
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Re: Nice photos Ricky

Quote:
Said R-dubb:
After seeing your post of some pics, you motivated me to post the pictures I had taken way back when. I edited the original post and inserted photos along the way. Hopefully that won't make the post too hard to print.

I'm glad a few folks are finding the procedure helpful.


R-dubb
RICK I hope some day I can be like you. you are so precise, so concise,and just easy to read and follow, now if my computer instruction were like yours.....................let me think...will be great

actually my computer tutorGUZZLER is pretty good,thanks again. I can post pictures now,well the new computer helpsThanks mistery friend.

I want this whole procedure on my update SITE,
can I ????.............R-dubb
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:46 AM   #21
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Re: Re: Nice photos Ricky

Quote:
Said ricardo kuhn:

I want this whole procedure on my update SITE,
can I ????.............R-dubb


Ricardo,

Need you ask?? The idea to post a procedure was yours. If it wasn't for having such a good time at John's we might not have learned so much. Cheers to you buddy.

The paper is yours to do what you wish. Too bad I don't speak any German...


R-dubb
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:52 PM   #22
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the CAT is out of the BAG,,I post the paper everywere

check it out

this is on UKGSer
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=5576

this is on the GERMAN "boxer forum
http://www.boxer-forum.de/dcforum/DCForumID9/2635.html

lets make some more of this things,make a paper for everything,that will be great,,don't you think!?!?!?!?


so what is NEXT
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Old 02-14-2003, 07:53 AM   #23
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Re: the CAT is out of the BAG,,I post the paper everywere

Quote:
Said ricardo kuhn:
lets make some more of this things,make a paper for everything,that will be great,,don't you think!?!?!?!?


so what is NEXT


Your really getting into this stuff. I'd be happy to do a few more, if we can find time. I'm pretty busy remodeling the bathroom for my wife I the moment. Paybacks are a bitch, you know.

In any case, I want to do some research and measurements to diagnose poping, pinging and surging problems. I know how to fix the pinging and poping for sure. And I think I can get a good start on 1150 surge as well. The key is measuring the 02 sensor and TPS voltages. We will need some volunteers that have these problems.

let me know.

R-dubb
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Old 02-14-2003, 09:35 AM   #24
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Re: Re: the CAT is out of the BAG,,I post the paper everywere

Quote:
Said R-dubb:


Paybacks are a bitch, you know.


let me know.

R-dubb

do you mean the KLX cost you $2000 plus a BATHROOM ? ?
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Old 02-14-2003, 04:27 PM   #25
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Re: Re: Re: the CAT is out of the BAG,,I post the paper everywere

Quote:
Said ricardo kuhn:
do you mean the KLX cost you $2000 plus a BATHROOM ? ?


Actually the bathroom was negotiated in exchange for Death Valley. We haven't even started on the KLX yet, cause she hasn't spoken to me since I brought it home.


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Old 02-14-2003, 04:35 PM   #26
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Re: Re: Re: Re: the CAT is out of the BAG,,I post the paper everywere

Quote:
Said R-dubb:
Actually the bathroom was negotiated in exchange for Death Valley. We haven't even started on the KLX yet, cause she hasn't spoken to me since I brought it home.


R-dubb

I glad to know that your are "smart" in many ways.

if you ever get "kick out" I lend you a big tent and I teach you how to live the ricky way.

the best part of those trips,,,is.
is the only time that my "SHITHOLE' house feels like palace,the rest of the time is just a ShiTtY little hoLE hOUsE.
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Old 02-14-2003, 06:39 PM   #27
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Great Job and thank yoou very much for taking the time and effort for all of the tech and photos.
I'm doing the big job on a R100GS that I bought with an bad drive and leaking seals.
Everything is rusted and real crappy.
But I'm having fun...
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Old 02-17-2003, 09:52 AM   #28
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and now in ITALIN too,,plus GERMAN

en ITALIANO

http://www.thsnet.it/qde/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=7854

en ALEMAN
http://www.boxer-forum.de/dcforum/DCForumID9/2635.html


en INGLES de INGLATERRA
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthr...&threadid=5576


plus is going to be at GRANT site (horizont unlimited),at my site, and who knows were else.

knowage is POWER
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Old 06-28-2003, 05:11 PM   #29
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Re: some photos

Quote:
Said Ricardo Kuhn:


ricky trying to introduce the tip of the acticulated joing,into the shaft.


Use a screwdriver and some straps.

You have only two hands..

With the left hand you move the final drive in place, hanging from the rear frame by a strap. With the right hand you fiddle the spline into the shaft by poking a screwdriver throug the right nut hole in the swingarm.

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Old 06-29-2003, 08:28 PM   #30
Ricardo Kuhn
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Re: Re: some photos

Quote:
Said Thomas:
Use a screwdriver and some straps.

You have only two hands..

With the left hand you move the final drive in place, hanging from the rear frame by a strap. With the right hand you fiddle the spline into the shaft by poking a screwdriver throug the right nut hole in the swingarm.


Exelent suggestion...

I can tell we are going to be friends
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Old 11-06-2003, 08:54 AM   #31
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Damn R-dubb, you be famous for this report!

BMW South Africa - Technical - Final Drive R&R Procedure - By R-Dubb

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Old 03-05-2004, 06:33 PM   #32
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Just test rode after following the write-up and putting a 33/11 on the '04 R1150RS. HUGE difference. Sixth gear now has a purpose in the twisties.

Thanks so much.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:30 PM   #33
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R-dubb and Ricardo, you guys are great! Thanks for putting pictures to these repairs

I am going to replace the final drive pivot bearings and I have a question before I get to it.

I know you may have stated these things early on in the thread but it remained unclear to me and I thought I'd better ask.

Do the two pivot bearing fasteners, one on the right or outside of the swing arm, and one on the left or inside of the swingarm, have opposite twist threads?

I know, I know, you mentioned left hand and right hand but before I impress 100+ pounds of torque to loosen a fastener I want to be absolutely clear as to the loosen direction. And I am not clear if you were talking about the thread twist direction, or the side of the bike the fastener was on.

So, do both fasteners have the same thread twist direction?

Thanks R-dubb.
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:54 PM   #34
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Cudos to all

All "Regular" threads. Right Hand, that is. This is America, after all.

That's the only trying part of the whole job. Breaking free of the factory "Loctite" takes some real heat. I don't know what 120 C *is*. But(t) I got there, I guess. My BMW white coat'er loved the stuff.

After you get them out, be very sure to clean them properly, including the threads in the housing. You'll know they're clean when you can run in the fixed bolt (right side) and the left (12mm allen) by hand. Then the left side locknut should be cleaned of residual "Loctite", too.

All this is to get proper torque readings and to avoid cross-threading. Ouch!!! That'd be a *real* bitch.

I'm an expert after having done only two bikes. Thanks to R-dubb, that is.

I dropped mine off of the center stand. If you work alone, recognize that 118 ftlb applied in the direction to the forward of the bike ='s some serious mechanical advantage. Even over the strap from your front wheel to the center stand.

You don't have to ask me how I know, right?
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
R-dubb and Ricardo, you guys are great! Thanks for putting pictures to these repairs


R-Dubb is Bussy at the Moment can I take a message

the tread on the swing arm mounts are the "Typical" right treat pattern

so don't worry about it,,actually you are really lucky because i happend to have a Swing Arm right next to my bed and a new camara ungry for pictures so here you go

sorry for the shaky hand


And the fact I'm going blind in a hurry






Okay that one Super suck


and this one just for FUn
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Old 03-06-2004, 03:13 AM   #36
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THANKS guys. I was thinking that maybe one was an opposite twist thread from the other. Like the front wheel steering knuckle retaining nuts on a car. One is right hand twist, and the other is left hand twist.

- Jim
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Old 07-24-2004, 04:03 PM   #37
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Sorry for the additional question, but does anyone know what the torque spec is on the other bolt on the paralever strut, not where the strut connects to the final drive, but where it connects to the transmission housing?
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Old 07-26-2004, 04:15 AM   #38
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It's the same values as to the final drive articulation. 160 Nm for the fixed bearing bolt, 7 Nm for the floating bearing stud one and 160 Nm for the corresponding locknut. I'm referring to the 1150GS.
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Old 10-06-2005, 04:57 PM   #39
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Question Replacing the boot

Greetings all,

I was helping my Dad replace his rear tire and found the rubber boot on the shaft rotted, apparently from brake fluid.

So.... Do I need to perform the surgery detailed in this thread to replace the boot?

Also, is there anything I need to check since the boot integrity was compromised?

Thanks,
Mark
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Old 10-07-2005, 02:24 AM   #40
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Amazing Piece Of Work ! Well Done ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb
Now that we have a bunch of folks following this one. I finished my draft paper and thought I would post it for review. I will be adding photos and diagrams shortly. I will also add some BMW part numbers. For now here is the document. I'll just edit the next post when making any changes. Best of luck!


R-dubb

Thx.. hp
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Old 10-07-2005, 09:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galen
I just bought a 12 mm hex wrench at Sears (it was evening and I couldn't find one anywhere else) and hacked about an inch and a half section and use a 12 mm socket on it. I probably have enough of the original wrench left to make 2 or 4 more stubs depending on how long I cut them.
In reference to Reassembly step 10: I also made a 30mm torque adapter out of the box end of a Husky 30mm combination wrench so I can hold the pivot bolt with the hex and torque the locknut at the same time. Kinda anal, but I am.
(I think it was 30mm. Husky is cheaper than Crapsman and not as chunky as Harbor Freight tools.)
Thanks R-Dubb for the writeup! I could've used it two years ago.


Galen

I was cool up until the point where he said to torque the pivot bolt locknut without moving the pivot bolt. The BMW special tool to do this is over $500. Your adaptation sounds great. Could you post a few pics? I'm having a hard time picturing in my mind what you did to make that 30mm torque adapter.
Thanks for helping out.

Great thread.
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Old 11-07-2005, 03:58 PM   #42
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very interesting

are some of the spines that cause difficult shifting in these pics ?...or are the splines in question the ones on the shaft at the clutch? Also that molly CV joint grease would not work in this area due to fact it could fling off and get on clutch....correct?

Were in here can I find the procedure for greasing splines if this ain't it?
thx
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:06 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racegun
are some of the spines that cause difficult shifting in these pics ?...or are the splines in question the ones on the shaft at the clutch? Also that molly CV joint grease would not work in this area due to fact it could fling off and get on clutch....correct?

Were in here can I find the procedure for greasing splines if this ain't it?
thx

There are three sets of splines.

Engine/clutch to trannie
Trannie to drive shaft
Drive shaft to final drive

This article is only about the third set. Nothing here will affect the transmission or clutch, although they look similar. FYI, I use anti-seize on the clutch splines cause its sticky and I have it. Might not be the best, but it works for me. And yeah, I tend to lather on the lube foor the drive shaft splines. At the clutch, a little dab'll do ya. I haven't read the spline lube report, so do what that says if you find it.

-dubb
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn
I was cool up until the point where he said to torque the pivot bolt locknut without moving the pivot bolt. The BMW special tool to do this is over $500. Your adaptation sounds great. Could you post a few pics? I'm having a hard time picturing in my mind what you did to make that 30mm torque adapter.
Thanks for helping out.

Great thread.



Like this to hold the 30mm lock nut.

Jim
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Old 11-07-2005, 04:37 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden


Like this to hold the 30mm lock nut.

Jim

I'm too cheap for one of those; not to mention that the length of that little do-dad will throw off the torque reading by some amount, which could easily be calulated. Perhaps not enough to matter.

Here how it works for me. I get the pivot bolt on the right finger snug. Run the one on the left in finger tight then back it out about three turns. Torque the right side. Then torque the pivot bolt ever so gently and feel the swing arm moving up and down. That feel should be just a slight resistance. Like a snug steering stem (on a normal M/C). I don't use any lock-tight on the left pivot bolt. After it is set, put lock-tight on the exposed threads and tighten the 30mm locknut with an open end wrench, while checking the swing arm for increased resistance. As long as the lock-tight is still runny, the lock bolt should then tighten to final torque without moving the pivot. Mark it if you must. Mine has never moved after that lock nut is sinched.

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Old 04-12-2007, 12:37 AM   #46
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Are people still doing this?

At least one got done last week. Here's some stuff I found out along the way.

If you're buying a new 3.2 ratio assembly from the 850GS model, it takes about three weeks to get it from Germany to your door. Mine had a properly torqued drain plug & crush ring, a loosely fitted fill plug & crush ring, the vent assembly, and two properly greased pivot bearings in place.


There are two empty grooves where o-rings have to go to seal around the ABS sensor; add them to your shopping list. Oil 'em before you put them in.


With a ratchet strap between the front wheel & the c-stand, a small jack under the FD, and a couple of sky hooks, everything is nice and stable when you're pushing 118 ft-lbs of torque on the pivot pins. I pulled about 10 pounds of lift at the strap, enough to take out the initial stretch. Don't take too much load off the centerstand - "Wheelbarrow" is a game for 60 pound kids, not 600 pound bikes.


Steve at Beemers and More here in town suggested using a wet rag to protect the rubber boot. Good idea. I switched to a propane torch when my heavy duty heat gun didn't get the pivot pins warm enough to soften the Loctite.


I did the work without any helper so I had to get clever with how I supported the FD during removal and then more importantly during the re-assembly. The colored lines show how to rig the straps so that the FD is gently placed toward the swing arm to keep the splines engaged. This makes a HUGE difference to your sanity. It sucks to get things lined up perfectly only to fall away at the slightest interruption.


Take a picture when you pull off the old FD to help you be sure how things should go back together.



I didn't remove the shock from the swing arm to move the arm up higher (to get better visibility of the u-joint phasing). Didn't need to. Oh, the shock bolt is Loctite'd in place, and the swing arm casting takes for-freekin-ever to warm up. There wasn't much value to be had for the extra work.

I spent about 6 hours on this first time (for me) job. On a second round, now that I know my way around it'd be about 3 hours. But then now that I've ridden it I can't think of a reason to go back to the original 2.82 drive.
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:01 AM   #47
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Great pictures and description, though you may have gone a little overboard with the trapeeze rig.

I did mine in about an hour at the MOA in Lima.



Fortunately John TM saved the day with a spare FD and the tools to do it with! He IS the man!

Jim
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