Hi

In the pursuit of liberty from surging, I've decided that changing the throttle cables would be no bad thing (02 Adv with 74k miles).

I'm fairly happy with the procedure (having read several posts & the workshop manual). My question is - do I need to change the splitter box? Does it have any moving parts that can wear etc? Problem is, it's on back order & I'll have to wait a week or so to get one, whilst the cables are in stock locally now.

If replacing the box is essential, then I'll wait and do the job next weekend - if not then I can get on with it now...

All advice appreciated...

Mike

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

the important part is the cables,the box you can reuse,,make sure is super clean and rolling easy...

also be careful with the little C-clip at the top of the axle since is really important and very easy to losee...

be prepare I much rather change a final drive than do this trottle box deal....

another note,,i don't think the choke cable is as necesary as the rest,but if you are at it may as well..

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I'm really Sorry but I'm "Out" of Rickybars, Actually I have a bunch of bars and a Ton of end pieces but Not that many clamps to offer them as a product anymore.

Thanks for those words of encouragement Ricky

Not an easy job then? It looked a little long winded, but not technically difficult to me - have I misjudged it??

Mike

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

I know that in two outta the three Oil Heads I've owned, they have developed a very stiff throttle and needed the Bowden box (da splitter) replaced.

My GS throttle is get'n stiff again but it is now outta warranty so I'm just gonna pull the box this time and see if I can clean and lube to solve da problem.

Never replaced da box due to surge'n

so, after all dat, I was not really any help was I

__________________
Sung by, Reckless Kelly
"My first love was a wicked twisted road
I hit the million mile mark at seventeen years old
I never saw the rainbow much less a pot of gold
yeah my first love was a wicked twisted road"

I just changed mine a few days ago and would be happy to help in anyway. The distributor (bowden box) was like $20 and you have to remove it anyway...so I changed it.
She now runs like a new bike.

Mine surged when it was new...

Mike

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

Ain't it time for you to go home yet?

__________________
Sung by, Reckless Kelly
"My first love was a wicked twisted road
I hit the million mile mark at seventeen years old
I never saw the rainbow much less a pot of gold
yeah my first love was a wicked twisted road"

thanks for the offer LR.

It's not the cost of the splitter box that I'm concerned about, just its availability - if it should be replaced then I'll wait until I can get one, if not, then I'll do the job this weekend...

Mike

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

6th August

So today I swap my throttle cables. I pick up the new cables at lunchtime from Portland BMW...



...there are 4 cables and a splitter box. A main throttle cable leads from the twist grip to the splitter box, then 2 shorter cables lead to the respective throttle bodies. A separate "cold start" cable runs from the left hand grip to the splitter box.

Ricardo has told me that he'd rather do a rear drive swap than a throttle cable change, a thought which fills me with confidence as I approach the bike...



First off - remove the tank. A simple enough task - I find a prop of some sort...



...in this case a mallet, is a useful way to gain access to the fuel line quick-disconnects.

Soon the tank's off...



Some of you who have GSes may find my bike a little different to yours. This is for various reasons: I don't have ABS, so there's a big gap ahead of the battery, where the ABS pump would live; I have an alarm and a Techlusion 259, as well as various other electrical bits fitted, so try to ignore the odd coil of wire cable tied around the place...

Back to business. You only need to remove this one bolt to gain access to the twist grip end of the throttle cable...



Take off the plate and disconnect the cable (excuse the focus - point and shoot one handed )...



At this point, I threaded the new cable alongside the old one, to make sure it followed exactly the same path, to avoid it getting kinked or trapped.



I undid both the left and right (pictured) cables at the throttle bodies.



Undo the 10mm locknut, unscrew the adjuster and, after feeding the cable through the gap in the plate, disconnect the spring clip on the inner side of the throttle body to release the cable. You have to do this by feel, but you'll get the idea when you try it...



The splitter box lies directly under the ABS Pump plate, in a specially designed niche. It's difficult to photograph, as it's partially obscured by the crank case breather hose...



To disconnect the "cold start" cable, I first removed the bar end weight and moved the handguard, for ease of access. As with the throttle side, you only need to remove one bolt...



...apologies again for the standard of pic...



...to remove the lever - once again, the cable can then be easily disconnected. I ran the new cable alongside the old one.

Time to remove the splitter box...

First, lift the breather hose out of the way (or as far out of the way as possible)...



...then depress the spring clip at the bottom of the housing...



...before steadily pulling the splitter box out...



It may require some persuasion - mine had been there since manufacture in early 2002, and had done 74k miles...



...but eventually it came out. It was full of dust and crap, but, for all that, the cables still operated smoothly...

The wheel which the three throttle cables attach to is held in place on its shaft by this circlip...



...probably not a good idea to lose it.

Cold start cable operates a cam which cracks the throttles open by a fraction to boost idle speed on cold start up...



...getting this long spring to stay put whilst re-assembling the cables onto the wheel is fun - if you have 3 hands...



Time to re-insert the splitter box...



Re-assembly is simply a reversal of the strip down. When fully re-assembled I did a full throttle body synch (see ADVRider Hall of Wisdom, if you are not familiar) and a TPS re-set (remove Fuse No 5, turn ignition on, roll throttle fully open, pause, fully closed, pause, repeat - ignition off, replace Fuse No 5).

The result? Well, despite the throttle action previously being smooth and there being no visible kinks or frays in the old cables - the difference is remarkable. The bike feels very smooth (nearly all of the previous "surging" has gone) and extremely responsive and the throttle considerably lighter. I kept thinking I was in a lower gear than I actually was. I'd advise anyone with a high mileage oilhead with original cables to consider doing this - 4½ hrs well spent

EDIT MikeP from UKGSer has recently done this job and has fitted the modified throttle cable guide kit which you now need to fit new cables to pre Dec 2004 bikes - his write up follows:


Mike O has detailed the cable-swap and his guide can be found on the AdvRider Hall of Wisdom:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...le%20swap.html

If you are contemplating doing the same and your bike was built before December 2004, then you will get a different main cable (the one from the throttle-grip to the splitter-box) and you will need the replacement guide.

The new cable cannot be fitted to the old guide.

The new cable is Part # 32737692561

The new guide is Part # 32727691990 (listed as SET: REP.KIT ACCELERATOR CABLE DEFLECTION) on the BMW fiche.

Here's what it is:



It took a little head scratching to see where the new parts went and what exactly they replaced and how, so this may save you some similar puzzlement.


Remove the hand-guard, the end-weight and the mirror.

Locate the bottom cover screw of the switch-block:





There is another screw holding the bottom cover in place at the extreme end of the underside near the brake master cylinder. Mine was solid and rather than chew the screw-head, I just pulled the plastic bottom cover down a bit.

Locate the self-tapping screw that is hidden by the (now removed) mirror stalk and remove it:



Lift the switch-block clear (it needs to be off of the throttle guide under the rubber grip) so that the twist-grip can be slid along the handlebar.

If your bike has heated grips, feed some more of the control cable into the handlebars to allow you to pull the twist-grip along the bar a little.

You need enough room to be able to get at the two (now exposed) cross-head screws (replacements are included in the kit). They are removed in this photo:



Once you have the screws out, you can slide the old cable-guide towards the twist-grip. It is located on the lug on the underside of the handlebar and has a ring of plastic around the bar:



Rather than removing the twist-grip from the handlebar completely, just snip the plastic ring in a couple of places (you won't be needing it again):



It's pretty obvious where the new parts fit so I won't insult your intelligence, you will end-up with an arrangement like this:



and a pile of redundant parts like this:



The modification is apparently because the old parts allowed the cable to jump out of the guide (that's what I was told anyway) but the up-side is that the cable adjuster at the twist-grip end is easier to work than the old one.

Thanks Mike

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

4.5 hrs is good time!

I don't know how many miles are on your bike, but mine truly felt like a 'new' bike...still does.
All the handlebar disassembly stuff is the biggest hassle.
My main throttle cable wasn't hanging up. Both TB cables were really tight...not moving easily.

Congrats, MikeO!

So what do you prefer!?!?
Mister MIKE
the final drive or the stupid trottle box

Oh thanks for the nice report

__________________

I'm really Sorry but I'm "Out" of Rickybars, Actually I have a bunch of bars and a Ton of end pieces but Not that many clamps to offer them as a product anymore.

The first time I went after the bowden box I pulled the battery and yanked the ABS modulator free etc, only to realize I didn't have to... I will be changing out my cables soon enough (48K miles), just because the pull has gotten 'stiff''...

Oh yeah, Rad... lubricating the cables is a very temporary solution as they will then attract dirt etc and as the lube sets up, it stiffens up the throttle action even more... It's the inner teflon slider tube that wears and adding cable lube usually only makes it worse in time...

JJ

__________________
QUOTE from Mr Head
"so I can hold the (horn) button down as long as it takes to soak through the black-blurry flog the SUV texters seem to all drift into as they wander between the dots on the freeway.

I understand why you said that Ricky It's a fiddly and time consuming job.

I've got to say that, working solo, I prefer to do the cables - but then, I'm in a nice warm dry garage, with all the tools I need & time wasn't an issue. I was lucky & things went well for me - like most jobs it comes down to having the confidence to tackle it - I won't worry next time I need to do it. Every job I do on this bike makes me understand the systems better - which is a good thing, if a little expensive...

Mike

EDIT - the other thing I learned was, if you want to prepare a 'how to do it' post - have a cameraman and a mechanic - trying to do both is far too difficult - especially with a point & shoot camera - you really need to be able to control the focus area...

__________________
All text & original photos © Mike Oughton 2004 - 2012

Thanks Mike. The pics are fine.

I think we need to cross-post to the hall of wisdom. I'd sure like to be able to find this post when my time comes.

Cap

Thanks Mike, exactly what I was looking for!

How was the day with that other oaf Bigdave?

Thanks Mike!

I've been wondering how to take out that box. Like JJ, I was thinking of having to remove a shit load of stuff to get to it.

A belated thanks to you mike. I'm ripping into mine today. I twisted the throttle on a new GS at the dealership and can't believe the difference...So, I am doing the deed. God damn dirt bike chores!

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Do a pop a wheelie!

"I'll leave you to tidy up the woulds and shoulds, wills and shalls, thats and whiches, etc." - Oscar Wilde

This is the second description of what is required, and either yours is the better description, or I'm finally catching on as to what's required....I think your is the better.....

Jim Bud

Here are four frames that might be useful. I helped a friend of mine change his cables recently, and snapped a few pictures.

The little tang in frame #2 is what you press down to get the box to slide towards you.

And the tab in frame #3 is to keep the bowden assembly tight against the front of the surrounding enclosure.

- Jim

__________________
"The "revolutionary" is in the minds of the marketers..." -- Mully

Considering that, all hatred driven hence,
The soul recovers radical innocence
-- W.B. Yeats

I don't know that I will ever find that one little tiny screw that holds the fast idle lever in place... I heard a slight clinking and rattling sound as it dropped away I wonder how fast I can get a replacement. I leave town Thursday evening so everything has to be back together by Wednesday evening. I sure would like to smack the dorks that designed this system and made it so freaking hard to access Looks like I may have to just do a lube and cleaning for now and then replace the cables after I get back.

Thanks for the detailed instructions. They really helped.

Adios,

__________________
Scott Friday
02 Kawasaki KLR 650 - 05 BMW R1200 GS - 10 KTM 530 EXC

Two Wheeled Texans

Mike,

Thanks for the excellent writeup. I managed mine in three hours, with your helpful instructions to guide me. 52K on the '00 GS, and it's a good improvement to have light throttle action back again. I read your comment on the spring clip to hold the cable end on the throttle wheel, but didn't understand... until I was ready to give up and remove the trhottle bodies when it hit me how easy BMW made it to get the cable on there. The simplest possible way was the right one.

__________________
Splitting lanes, and splitting hairs.

BTW, since I did not see it mentioned elsewhere....

When I bought my stuff, I was told there was an upgrade kit where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle grip...

the plastic pieces that hold the grip end of the cable are of an improved design....once I looked hard, I could see that there were two more small screws holding the piece behind the wide end of the rubber grip...once removed, the new piece was easy to install....

I can only believe it's an improvement...since the old one caused no problem for me...

__________________
Jim Bud


"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character......give him power".....Abraham Lincoln

Jim Bud,
Can you tell me more about this accelerator cable upgrade?
After my 2000 GS accelerator frayed at the grip end, I ordered all 4 cables from Hammersley in VA. The fast idle and both throttle body cables arrived promptly, identical to the originals - but the accelerator cable wasn't even close. About a foot too short with ends totally unlike the original. Another cable was sent to me a week later- still completely wrong. This is in spite of my original cable being clearly marked "BMW", with a part # embossed. Jason, the parts fellow at Hammersley has been sympathetic and polite - but totally clue-free. He tells me that my original part # has been superseded. I have made several phone calls, sent him photographs and detailed dimensions, and my VIN. It is sad to see a supposedly top-shelf house attempt to substitute product knowledge with part number dogma.
With no hope from Hammersley I visited my local bicycle repair shop and picked up a length of 1.4mm dia. steel cable. I used this and end anchors fashioned from brass rod to repair my cable assembly. It works OK, but in spite of carefully measuring the length of the original cable I am a 1/4" too short and my fast idle doesn't work.
Please tell me more about this upgrade kit for the accelerator cable. Can you direct me to a photo or illustration?
Also, has anyone else had a similar experience with Hammersley? Can anyone recommend a knowledgeable parts house?
Thanks!

Check out this thread
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...throttle+cable

JJ

__________________
QUOTE from Mr Head
"so I can hold the (horn) button down as long as it takes to soak through the black-blurry flog the SUV texters seem to all drift into as they wander between the dots on the freeway.

Thanks for the heads-up JJ -

I posted a reply to Mr. Head in the thread you reference. Hopefully he can tell me all about this "new and improved" accelerator cable which may have replaced the original design. I do not understand how the updated throttle cable attaches to the twist grip.

This would be an excellent tidbit for the Hall of Wisdom - if I ever get straight I'll write a short narrative.

The new throttle tube to bowden box cable has a metal elbow at the throttle tube end and an updated attachment bracket that screws to the throttle tube housing. The old bracket (the one with curved cable guides molded in) is removed and discarded.

My parts guy ordered the "fix" kit for me and the wrong parts came in. He had to call BMW to get the correct part numbers.

__________________
10 FLHCUSE-BLK, 09 FXDL, 08 FXDWG, 98 FLHR, 07 R1200GS Adv, 95 R100GSPD Classic, 93 R100GSPD, 92 CB750

Steverino recently did a thread on the replacement using the new kit:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...le+replacement

I did this about a month ago, including the box, wheel the whole sheebang. Didn't fix the surging or stumbling or rough running.

I did however notice a much smoother and easier throttle movement.

What made the difference in the case of my '04 was renewing the stick coils.

__________________
...Dick
Go Ned!

Eight Years
Save $5 with Smugmug coupon: F8vWgljcr2IPk

I am guessing from the parts fische that the updated parts are these:

Item 04
32727691990
$26.00

The right handle bar is where you will find this, item 03 is not listed any longer, item 04 is the update pieces.

The deflector cover:
D = 45

32727691989, $12

I'm guessing the throttle cable is:

32737659690, $44.33

I'll check my receipts when I get home and post what I find.

__________________
...Dick
Go Ned!

Eight Years
Save $5 with Smugmug coupon: F8vWgljcr2IPk

Any idea when the updated parts were put on as OEM? I've got an '04 GS and care spare cables with me for emergencies, but am unsure if the originals are the old style or the updated version.

Here is the parts list I got to update mine:

32727691990 - Replacement Kit Accelerator Cable Deflection, (D=45) - $23.99

32737692561 - Accelerator - $48.19

32737659676 - Choke Cable - $35.19

32737692563 - Accelerator Cable Left, (200mm) - $18.19

32737692562 - Accelerator Cable Right, (140mm) - $16.80

13547657001 - Cable Distributor, (the box assembly) - $35.19

And that all worked. for me.

I have no idea when they swapped to the new style, but I bet it was in '05. When you look at your bike and there isn't a little tube coming out from under the throttle grip curved about 90 degrees with a plastic adjustor barrel, then you have the old style. Check the new parts and if the long cable has that bent tube and adjustor you're holding new stuff. You also need the new style "repair" kit which is the plate that covers the mechanism and holds the tube in place.

__________________
...Dick
Go Ned!

Eight Years
Save $5 with Smugmug coupon: F8vWgljcr2IPk

Thank you very much, that's a big help.

Did your parts man have a tough time figgering out the newer accelerator cable - and the hardware kit?

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a "stick coil" ??

Stick coils are coils installed at the spark plug instead as we are used to under the tank, with high voltage wires coming out to a little plug connector, like on the lawn mower.

The stick coil has three small gage wires attached, and acts as the coil right at the spark plug. THe down side is that thise windings of copper wire and insulating plastic don't do well over repeated heatings and coolings they experience living where they do, buried in the head. So, they die eventually. $95 later you have a new one and life is back to normal.

The joys of FI.

Stick Coil:


And where it goes:

__________________
...Dick
Go Ned!

Eight Years
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Ok so last night I go downstairs to say hello to my 05 1150GSA and discover the throttle wont return when turned. I followed a squeek to an area that would be where the Bowden Box is. It was fine when I put it away in November. I used the search function and came up with this thread. My question may be a stupid one but thats ok with me . It is this, does the bowden box slide out of its holder with out removing any cables? And if so, is a throttle body sync required if you just slide the box out and clean it up without disconnecting anything? And does a bike like mine with a Servo Motor complicate things more than the instructions shown in this thread? Why wouldnt those dumb bastards put a cover on that box to keep the dirt out? I'm hoping some WD 40 and a gentle shot of air will clean it up.
Thanks for any help

So after reading the thread a little slower and understanding what it says I can see you do have to disconnect the cables. My concern is the TB Sync which I dont have the equipment to do. Do you guys think this is a job that would be covered under warranty?

You can perform a throttle synch with greater precision that BMW's fancy synch tool if you use a simple water tube manometer technique. Search for that here in GSpot, and we'll walk you through the simple steps.

__________________
Splitting lanes, and splitting hairs.

The box will slide out without removing anything, but only so far. It is possible something got into the box when it was sitting, a critter, and jammed it up.

Don't sweat the TB sync until you get it all straight. Providing there is slack the idle will be on still, and so long as no damage was done to the cables, they shouldn't be far enough off to matter.

Jim

__________________
Click here for BMW Maintenance and Repair DVDs and Corrections. "SALE"

Have an idea for a DVD, click HERE!

Thanks for the replies. I will tackle it this coming week and will no doubt have questions

Now, in my experience, of the dreaded surge, (after 65,000 trouble free miles), then another 50 fighting it all on all fronts, and enduring the many pundents saying, " They all do that".... I finally broke down and rebuilt the right side TB.

Fixed.

No more surge. Upon initial inspection I saw the outside seal leaking, and the inside, (nearest the engine dry). I only worked on the right side. And that fixed the surge.

In process,of this I replaced all the throttle cables, the boden box, the coils, (they failed along the way a few times), and the cam chain tensioner on the left side. Re-adjusted my TPS, many, many times. Resorted to a Techlusion box, (of some help but not the dagger that killed the beast), and endured lots more "factory trained mechanics" telling me how they all do that...

The ONE and ONLY thing that made the real difference was rebuliding the throttle body. In face replacing the butterfly shaft seals was probably the silver bullet in all this.

By the by, the throttle cable improvement really just cuts a little cable drag, (if you keep the bike ong enough you'll be forced to do this update as the old system saws the guide, slowly causing more and more drag).

The real issue is an intake side air leak, aka the butterfly shaft seals.

The trick to the rebuild is removing the shiny cap on the outside of the right throttle body. I used a pair of adjustable pliers, (Channel-loks). Grip at the outside edge and be firm, don't rock, you do not want to crack the TB. Rotate back and forth carefully. The cap will work free. It is neither glued, or welded. The fit is tight enough that in my case I was not able to get the new cap on. A few marks on the old cap, re-installed are evidence of a road well traveled.

Oh, and I have yet to re-adjust my valves, it's been some 6,000 miles or so. Runs fine. 110,000 miles.



Good luck.

__________________
...Dick
Go Ned!

Eight Years
Save $5 with Smugmug coupon: F8vWgljcr2IPk

Just had my entire throttle cable(s) replaced. Wow! Incredible difference! It is truly like a brand new bike. I have 60K miles and when I recently went in for an oil change, the tech came out and told me my throttle cable was in bad shape and was requiring far too much effort to turn the throttle handle.

I agreed with him, it did seem like it was harder to turn that it used to be, but it happens so gradually, you fail to really notice the change over time. Anyway, the new throttle is incredibly light and I had to basically re-learn the throttle handeling on my GS. It's now so light, it's difficult not to race the engine at times. Will take some getting used to.

__________________
I rode in on a horse and can't seem to get out of LA.

There is no lube on the 'axle' of any of the factory-installed bowden boxes I've seen. Adding lube there, or anywhere in the cable system, improves things for about an hour of stop and go riding. After that short while, the friction becomes worse than before it was lubed.

__________________
"The "revolutionary" is in the minds of the marketers..." -- Mully

Considering that, all hatred driven hence,
The soul recovers radical innocence
-- W.B. Yeats

Ii had the same experience when I replaced all the cables on my Y2K 1150GS.

__________________
Splitting lanes, and splitting hairs.

My bikes still under warranty so my first move is to pursue that option. We'll see what happens with that.

I believe that the short TB cables become 'boogered up' (great term) before the other cables.

That 'additional piece' needed for the main throttle cable was started sometime before '05.

The 2-spark design/execution was not a good one.

Anybody know offhand if these are the same part #'s for a 95' 1100GS???
Gonna take em to my dealer this weekend.
Thanks!!!!!

__________________
Crackhead retards keep me steadily employed.

I can't leave good enough alone.

A 95 doesn't have the bowden box configuration, it has one continuous cable with two seperate housing sections. It might be possible to retrofit the bowden box, but I think it would be tricky to find a good location for the box, and fit the cable ends. I could be wrong, I've never tried it. Just wanted to make sure you know that this would be a totally different cable system that you're putting in.

__________________
Zak

ktm
old bmw
others

The n00b catches that one. Nice one Zak.

__________________
"The "revolutionary" is in the minds of the marketers..." -- Mully

Considering that, all hatred driven hence,
The soul recovers radical innocence
-- W.B. Yeats

But even with my new cable, freshly adjusted valves, new TB o-rings, etc, I can't get my throttle bodies perfectly synced. Maybe I should take a look at the throttle plate shaft.

On the bright side, it has two wheels and it takes me places, and I enjoy every minute of it.

See ya around Jim.

__________________
Zak

ktm
old bmw
others

Cool man, I did not know that.......not real concerned about the box if I don't have one, just need to know what I need to replace stock stuff.......I'm gonna go to the dealer tomorrow and see what parts I need. Thanks!!!

__________________
Crackhead retards keep me steadily employed.

I can't leave good enough alone.

You were right Slack!!! It is one cable with a split housing! Seems to be less hassle to install too. Plus, it looks like the price for that and the choke cable is gonna be around $50 too!

__________________
Crackhead retards keep me steadily employed.

I can't leave good enough alone.

One other thing you might want to replace at the same time: Throttle body o-rings. If they're old, they can be a pain to get back on right. That's all that I can think of.

Poolside's thread on Left side cam chain tensioners has a great little blow by blow of taking off the throttle bodies the right way. I think it's linked in the Wisdom section.

Maybe you can replace the cable without removing the throttle bodies, but I did a few other things at the same time, so I took them off.

__________________
Zak

ktm
old bmw
others

Cool, yep, I did the cam chain tensioner this past fall and replaced the orings on that side. Thanks again!!!

__________________
Crackhead retards keep me steadily employed.

I can't leave good enough alone.

Any tips on measuring the slack (2mm) at the TBs?
I can't tell if both sides are the same.
How close do they have to be?
Are these meant as a rough adjustment and
a TB synch the fine adj ?

__________________
'00 R1150GS, Yella

Helmet laws suck. They interfere with natural selection.


ATGATT 35:12-14
"And Atgatt courted Motgatt, and took her for a wife.
And lo, he compromised with Atgmott, and verily she conceived,
and did bear a son, Notgatt. And Notgatt roamed naked,
and did bequeath his skin to the roads. And he was a wild ass and an outcast,
and was hated through all the land. And his forehead was branded, and he did be
come a sign and a warning to all the people."

In a word, yes.

I used to use a small ruler but then realized that as long as there was ALWAYS slack at the adjusters and they were close to even AND THEY WERE SYNCHED (as in they both pulled open and closed at the same time) the exact amount wasn't the point.

JJ

__________________
QUOTE from Mr Head
"so I can hold the (horn) button down as long as it takes to soak through the black-blurry flog the SUV texters seem to all drift into as they wander between the dots on the freeway.

Yes, in a word.

__________________
"The "revolutionary" is in the minds of the marketers..." -- Mully

Considering that, all hatred driven hence,
The soul recovers radical innocence
-- W.B. Yeats

For those who have seen the splitter box close up....

How does the cam from the fast idle pull the throttles open? I am wondering if the fast idle cable can be made to open TB's more to work like a throttle lock.


Don

__________________
Q: What do you do when...
A: Relax, give it more gas.

Johnjen's answer is right but there is a little more to add. The more slack there is on the cables at idle, the less effect the "choke" adjustment has (for bikes with a Bowden box). I try to adjust them with very little slack on the left tb at idle and then sync up the right. This will let you bump up the idle to 2500 or 3k rpm with the "choke" control.

Too much slack at idle makes the choke completely ineffective.

__________________
A Question of Balance

The choke cable pulls on a slender wedge that operates against the pulley inside the Bowden box. I have never stopped to analyze it in more depth but I'm sure someone has.

I wonder if your idea would be a safety issue in an emergency situation?

__________________
A Question of Balance

The fast idle cable pulls on a wedge that rotates the drum a fixed amount. If you have a lot of slack in your cables, the fast idle won't work very well. The drum rotation is fixed so the throttles open only after the slack has been taken up.

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10 FLHCUSE-BLK, 09 FXDL, 08 FXDWG, 98 FLHR, 07 R1200GS Adv, 95 R100GSPD Classic, 93 R100GSPD, 92 CB750

Yeah I ran into that and as long as the gap is close to 2mm the fast idle lever will get the rpms up to ≈2K rpm. And if it doesn't there is an adjuster on it's cable to make up the difference… Unless it's WAY out, in which case the whole cable setup needs to be fussed with.

And if there is to much slack on the TB adjusters than there can be a corresponding 'dead zone' in the throttle. I prefer to minimize this 'dead zone' so that the slack at the handlebar is minimal. This helps with driveability issues. Of course there always has to be some slack. Make sure that when the handlbars are turned hard left and hard right that there is still slack and the rpms don't change.

JJ

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QUOTE from Mr Head
"so I can hold the (horn) button down as long as it takes to soak through the black-blurry flog the SUV texters seem to all drift into as they wander between the dots on the freeway.

What is this "gap" you speak of? The previous posts referred to "slack" at the leftside Throttle Body (TB). I presume you mean, by 2mm "gap," the amount of free motion of the cable sheath when lifted out of the threaded barrel cup on the lefthand side throttle adjuster.

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Splitting lanes, and splitting hairs.

In regards to adjusting the throttle cables at the TBs......

I found a good tutorial starting on page 16 of TBSD in Wisdom.

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'00 R1150GS, Yella

Helmet laws suck. They interfere with natural selection.


ATGATT 35:12-14
"And Atgatt courted Motgatt, and took her for a wife.
And lo, he compromised with Atgmott, and verily she conceived,
and did bear a son, Notgatt. And Notgatt roamed naked,
and did bequeath his skin to the roads. And he was a wild ass and an outcast,
and was hated through all the land. And his forehead was branded, and he did be
come a sign and a warning to all the people."

Yeah I can see where that could be confusing…

The gap refers to the distance the end of the throttle cable ferrule pulls out of the TB adjuster. I mentioned that I used to use a small machinist's rule to measure this gap when I lifted the cable ferrule up and away from the TB adjuster. These two pieces fit into each other and provide a convienient place to measure the 'gap'.

JJ

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QUOTE from Mr Head
"so I can hold the (horn) button down as long as it takes to soak through the black-blurry flog the SUV texters seem to all drift into as they wander between the dots on the freeway.

Replaced mine Saturday. What a PITA! But I'd rather swap cables tham pull the trans. Took me no more than 4.5 hours. FWIW I routed the main TC and the right TC above the breather tube. It was: MTC below and RTC above.

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'00 R1150GS, Yella

Helmet laws suck. They interfere with natural selection.


ATGATT 35:12-14
"And Atgatt courted Motgatt, and took her for a wife.
And lo, he compromised with Atgmott, and verily she conceived,
and did bear a son, Notgatt. And Notgatt roamed naked,
and did bequeath his skin to the roads. And he was a wild ass and an outcast,
and was hated through all the land. And his forehead was branded, and he did be
come a sign and a warning to all the people."

Hay, can any one recomended where to get these parts other than BMW stealership? I just called my local and although these prices above are 4 years old, in Australia, the prices are triple!

Hay Ewe

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not JUST another sheep....

Plan the Day, Fill the Day, be Rewarded by the Day