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Old 02-14-2007, 04:10 PM   #1
klm4755
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Homemade LED Auxiliary Lights for the KLR650 DIY

Enclosed are the step by step instructions I used to make custom LED auxiliary/running lights. The intent of the lights are to supplement the KLR650 headlight. The advantages of this lighting system are:
1. Bight lights = increased visibility. A safety issue
2. 2x additional forward facing bright lights gives other drivers a depth perseption in judging your distance relative to their location.
3. LED’s are very vibration resistant, never burn out, and are low power consumption. The ones I selected are the brightest I could find within a 1 inch diameter cluster. This system consumes 5.4 watts total!
Note: No LED auxiliary lights are commercially available, so I was forced to make my own. There are 4x phases of this install.
1. LED bulb evaluation.
2. Light attach bracket to KLR650 (fellow KLRworld Mark was the inspiration for my design).
3. LED bulb attach to light housing.
4. Wiring to bike.
The Bracket material was 6061-T6 at .10 inches thick. It can be found here for $11.87, all you need is a 12 inch x 12 inch size:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...owunits=inches
The LED’s can be found on E-bay here for $13.50 each:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHITE-24-LED-replacement-bulb-lamp-light-s-with-wires_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35598QQihZ010QQit emZ200061654414
The auxillary lights can also be found on E-bay here for $14.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-in-CLEAR-HALOGEN-ROUND-FOG-DRIVING-LIGHTS-NEW-AB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ013QQitemZ2 30090466726
The cost of the modification costs about $54 total!

start all projects by reviewing topic

light bracket overall size 12 inch x 7 inch

remove front fender

measure attach bracket pad “land” size

gross trim iteration 1.

after the band saw


check placement

trim again

mark again

trim again

locate attach holes, this bracket will be part of the fender stack-up

drill here

check hole size

drill and deburr

time to place back on bike

check clearance. Does not hit the nerf bars! That’s good.

light will be mounted about here

this is the light to mount. This one came with a 55 watt H3 type bulb. I replaced the as delivered bulbs with these 35 watt bulbs

need this 12 volt DC source for testing. It actually puts out 14 volts.

amp and volt meter

shrink wrap kit

wire connector kit

35 watt H3 bulb output

measured output = 3.016 amps or 42 watts

This is the LED I’ll be swapping out for that H3 incandescent bulb.

measured output =.192 amps or 2.7 watts per bulb

bulb diameter = 1.034 inch

will fit the bulb deep and securely in this light housing

side by side . Small LED flashlight, normal 2 D cell flashlight, 12 volt LED light, and 35 watt H3 bulb.

LED has cluster lights shining to the side

measure small diameter = .577 inches

power-up the LED’s. very bright and cool to the touch

light from rear

need to attach(glue) this plastic washer to the LED’s

washer size outer diameter = 1.258 inch. Can get at Home Depot

measure and trace

best to hand file to the marking

press fit on the LED’s

need to attach some of this reflector tape to those washers

trace and cut

attach to LED

glue on

disassemble these new lights

like so

mark trim line

will fit LED deep in here

ready for cutting/trimming

since the metal is so thin, best to route to trim line. Drill will thrash the housing. Spotface won’t work either.

slowly open-up the hole

blow out particles collected

nice centered hole to accept the LED bulb

center LED bulb in hole

tape in place. Note: I destroyed a light housing in an earlier attempt at this project by gluing the bulb in place at this step. The fumes given off while the glue is curing got into the reflector area and stuck to the reflector and glass. This made the reflector “dull”. Tape works fine. Although not clearly shown it is fully taped up and sealed.

like in this view

the LED bulb extends far into the light housing and is secure

another view

remove the baseplate for trimming

want it flush up to the bracket

measure and mark. Need to take a little off the edge

trim

sand

tad bit off the end

re-assemble. Note: I reversed the light bracket to the rear

will fit like this

final bracket trimming required

mark trim lines

band saw trim

disc sanding trim

light attach holes

drill, deburr, and countersink

quick check on fender

attach on bike

adjustable sturdy and robust design

check clearance. No issues

A-OK here too!

make wire connectors. White = 12v ground. Black and Red = 12v +

crimp and shrink wrap

Using this on all electrical connects to keep water out of the connections

light wiring all done

view of system with no power

wire connection in faring. No binding issues when turning handle bar

the bike side connection is covered here “KLR650 Marker lights install and review”:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,1956.0.html
I’m basically tapping into the city light leads in the front faring.

fire up the lights!

with headlight on

close up of LED light

off centerline view

lights off

1/4 view lights off

forward view lights on

1/4 view lights on. Note small marker light on faring

another view

with camera filter

off front view
Review of Mod.
1. Very bright system. I’ll leave them on always.
2. Low power consumption 5.4 watts total.
3. Low cost modification $54 total
4. Light system will outlast the bike
In summary I’m very pleased with the project outcome, It exceeded my expectations.
Keithm
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:35 PM   #2
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I nominate you the King of KLR owners.

That was unbelievably anal. You did a tremendous job though.

Every step was impressive and I'm humbled by your process. You give Pyndon a run for his money.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:47 PM   #3
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You have more organization in your KLR Manual binders than I have in my entire life! Wow!
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:56 PM   #4
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Yup, cool. Nice EBC rotor, too.
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apeirce
I nominate you the King of KLR owners.

That was unbelievably anal. You did a tremendous job though.

Every step was impressive and I'm humbled by your process. You give Pyndon a run for his money.

+1

Very nice job.
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:55 PM   #6
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Unbelievable! Very nice work are you interested in selling those? I have an 06 and am in need of more light.
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Old 02-14-2007, 11:59 PM   #7
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Thumb

Holycrapthaswasawsome!
Now all you need to do is cover your KLR in dirt and you're done!

MM
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:32 AM   #8
Land
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Cool project and great post. That is a good-lookin' setup you put together.

Thanks for sharing.

Chris
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:34 AM   #9
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Looks great.. if you decide to get into the KLR light bar business let us know. There isn't one. With the 400 watt stator, I'd just hang a pair of Piaa's without bothering to modify them with LED's... Great job...
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Old 02-15-2007, 09:53 AM   #10
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Enclosed are a couple more pictures and a strength analysis of the bracket design. I assessed the static strength capability of the design and can justify massive additional capability beyond a "limit" type load vertical factor of ~10g's.
I have no plans to sell. As soon as money is involved, this hobby will become a burden. However, if needed I could provide a template of the bracket, so a trace, cut and drill would be required to get the design.

weight of light + LED bulb

eccentric distance to cantilevered strongback measured

bracket static strength calc's

LED's only

Garage door (no lights)

KLR stock headlight only

LED lights only

stock headlight + LED's

view back at bike (wheel pointing fwd)

view back at bike (wheel turned left)
The adhesive backing seemed to stick to the nylon washer fine. The washer is attached with electrical tape to the light housing. Seems more than adquate. That washer is also "press fit" on the LED. I really did not need to super glue it to the LED light.
It was just as easy to give the washer 100% coverage with the reflector material. I did not have adhesive issues when applying the backing to the washer. I'm still leery of using glue, based on my earlier experiences with the vapors leaching into the housing. I did try silicon and epoxy as gluing agents to no avail. Hope this helps!
Keithm
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:13 PM   #11
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That is a great write up. Geez your calculations on the strength and flexiblity of the bracket would rival rocket engineering. Why not use some angle iron! It is a KLR after all!

Seriously though if you provided a template I'd be interested in using additional lighting for my KLR.
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Old 02-16-2007, 10:19 PM   #12
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Cool write up!
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Old 02-18-2007, 12:41 PM   #13
klm4755
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Thanks for the comments.
I'll try to get a template made within the next week.
Keithm
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:51 PM   #14
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Excellent write up. You don't miss a thing. I made a simular bracket for some Piaa 002x lights a couples of years ago but moved them down to the crash bars later for a little better crash protection. You gotta love the LED technology thats come out over the past few years. The best is yet to come. Thanks again for the write up. 2HE
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:10 AM   #15
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Question

Where did you get the aluminum fender brace? (Saw the name on it but can't seem to locate on the web)
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:10 AM   #16
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Wow...

I like the bracket. Very impressive. I'm trying to figure something out myself right now. The lights I bought are too heavy I think, but I'll try them anyway. I was thinking about mounting them to the nerf bars with fuel / brake / electrical line type "c" brackets.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:12 AM   #17
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where did you mount your's Earnie?

As the question states, Earnie, you mentioned you mounted your lights to your bars. Do you have a picture?
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:31 AM   #18
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Clearance lights

P.P. S.
I just noticed the clearance lights, nice touch.

Where did you mount your switches...?

Reagrds, JtB.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:47 AM   #19
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Fender brace...

If I'm not mistaken that's an Acerbis fender brace...
You can get one from modified to fit from TPI... http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/ForkBrace.htm I've bought a bunch of stuff from them, quite helpfull people.
Have you considered changing your fender, Acerbis, KTM style. It should flap less. Its my next plan. I was considering going to the aluminum brace ititially. I unfortunatly have to wait for warmer weather before I do anything to my bike. At minus 15 wrenches stick to hands..... that is if hands will open.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:10 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apeirce
I nominate you the King of KLR owners.

That was unbelievably anal. You did a tremendous job though.

Every step was impressive and I'm humbled by your process. You give Pyndon a run for his money.



even for an engineer I consider that
Quote:
Originally Posted by apeirce
... unbelievably anal. ....


but, but, but

why a ground (white) as well as a 12 vdc neg (black)?

I see you have 3 conductor cable there, but you basically have 2 ground leads run

12 vdc neg IS ground

Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755


make wire connectors. White = 12v ground. Black and Red = 12v +


very nice work
well designed

well executed

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Old 02-19-2007, 01:41 PM   #21
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wow!

great work! I was thinking something exactly like this, except not nearly as thorough as you and not with the metal-work (since I haven't the tools nor the expertise). That being said, I'd love a template that could be printed out. If you need help getting it to scale to true dimensions when printed, shoot me a PM and I can help with that.


I have been thinking for the past few months of LED lights up front to make that "conspicuity triangle" that seems like would work very well to me. I have been going down the path of 1W or 3W luxeon LEDs -- I've just been stuck on the reflector/housing. I had never considered using an existing light housing... hmmm.
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Old 02-19-2007, 04:35 PM   #22
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You put more thought and effort into that then most people do rasing children. Well done. Wanna make me some XRL brackets for some custom panniers?
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:19 PM   #23
klm4755
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The LED marker lights step by step install can be seen here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,1956.0.html
The Acerbis front fender reinforcement detailed install and review can be seen here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,677.0.html
I try to document (detailed, step by step) all my mod's. They are posted over at www.KLRworld.com
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:28 PM   #24
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I for one am disappointed...

...a proper boeing engineer (hey it was on his machinst rule) would have used Ti or maybe even Kevlar impreganated CF!

Seriously though that is a great right up.
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Old 02-19-2007, 05:33 PM   #25
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beautiful work, you can work on my bike any time



a couple of nits:

"
measured output =.192 amps or 2.7 watts per bulb

measured output = 3.016 amps or 42 watts
"

I think "measured power draw" would be more accurate.



Again, lovely work.
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:18 PM   #26
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LED's are polarity sensitive. The white wire was defined as a 12v negative and the black/red wires were 12v positive. The black/red both connected to positive since the light could be set at 2x brightness levels. I of course desired full-up brightness to maximize the light output. Hope this helps!
Keithm
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:07 AM   #27
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Thoreau sp?? NEW 2008 KLR

Whoever was looking for the aluminum fender support, I understand parts for the 2008 KLR are now available. Try one of those insead..... Just a thought.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:07 AM   #28
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Excellent write up.
FWIW:
These lights:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-in-CLEAR-HALOGEN-ROUND-FOG-DRIVING-LIGHTS-NEW-AB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQihZ013QQitemZ2 30090466726>
Can be found at either Molly Wart (Baja) or Auto Zone (Pilot) for $20. Shipping will depend on how far and your gas mileage.

Switches:
Someone asked. Dunno what you did but I've mounted switches on the mirror stalks for my '83 Interceptor and '85 Sabre. That puts the switch within easy thumb reach.
Switches are ordinary $2.00 switches mounted into a film cassette (Free at photo shops). Mount is two hose clamps: one around the cassette, the other around the first clamp and around whatever you want, e.g. handle bar, mirror stalk. Nice thing about this -- other than cheapness -- is you have more flexibility as to where you mount the switch. Plus, instead of SPST switches you can use DPDT switches for some applications.

Mounting bracket:
I've cobbled brackets from 1 X 1/4 alloy bar. Clamp twixt two bricks, heat and bend. Cut to length, grind, sand, drill tap and mount. Very stiff. Depending on bike, the bracket has been mounted to:
Frame bolt for fairing
Headlight bracket
Hose-clamped to a frame rail.
Custom "Farkle" bar.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:37 PM   #29
klm4755
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No need for a toggle type switch. The LED's are hardwired directly to the city light wires in all KLR forward farings. I actually tapped into the wires for my 12v GPS dash SAE connector and the marker LED's. With Bike on, they are always on. Now I did install the European switch, so I can turn them off while riding the bike if I desire.
See 12v GPS SAE connecter step by step install here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,1798.0.html



see European switch install and review here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,675.0.html

see detailed instructions on making a dash here
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,1851.0.html

hope this helps!
Keithm
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Old 02-21-2007, 03:04 PM   #30
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Sticky!

This is so utterly brilliant... and cheap... that it deserves a sticky.

Well done!
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Old 02-24-2007, 03:57 PM   #31
klm4755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markgsnw
beautiful work, you can work on my bike any time



a couple of nits:

"
measured output =.192 amps or 2.7 watts per bulb

measured output = 3.016 amps or 42 watts
"

I think "measured power draw" would be more accurate.



Again, lovely work.

Thanks for the comments!
Keithm
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Old 02-24-2007, 04:44 PM   #32
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Lights are outstanding, but how much for the bike???
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:29 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 100mpg
You put more thought and effort into that then most people do rasing children.

Exactly!!! Like me. Mind working on them for the summer? I can fly them to you. I think I've already messed up their polarity or something…
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Old 02-24-2007, 06:52 PM   #34
100mpg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Right Turn Clyde
Exactly!!! Like me. Mind working on them for the summer? I can fly them to you. I think I've already messed up their polarity or something…

HA! I shuddered when I read this. At 48, I am single and childless. There is only room for one child in my home and thats me.
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:51 AM   #35
klm4755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerT
...a proper boeing engineer (hey it was on his machinst rule) would have used Ti or maybe even Kevlar impreganated CF!

Seriously though that is a great right up.
The Al 6061-T6 (the cheapie stuff) works just fine. I have no cutting tools for Titanium.
Keithm
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:35 AM   #36
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Wow. Really nice job - and one of the best reports on making something I've seen. You deserve a beer or two from us.
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Old 02-25-2007, 01:44 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755
LED's are polarity sensitive. The white wire was defined as a 12v negative and the black/red wires were 12v positive. The black/red both connected to positive since the light could be set at 2x brightness levels. I of course desired full-up brightness to maximize the light output. Hope this helps!
Keithm

would have made more sense if I had READ the description clearly the FIRST time

my bad

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Old 02-27-2007, 07:12 PM   #38
klm4755
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Ok, so I finally traced the LED Auxilliary bracket for distribution. I’m officially calling it the KLRworld Moose bracket.

lights and KLRworld Moose bracket off the bike

flipped over view

lights off, ready to trace. Fits on standard 8.5x11 sheet...whoo hoo

trace with sharpie

now you can see the inspiration of the name

scale as a reference

I swapped out the attach flush screws with these tamper proof titanium counter sink style. You need a special tool to remove. Standard phillips won’t fit.

as installed

lights back on.
Now I need suggestions on getting a better fidelity PDF type document, so you can download a 1:1 scale size. I can mail this if someone would like to take on that task as an option.
Keithm
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:55 PM   #39
klm4755
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For those intrested in the bracket for the KLR lighting. A PDF trace outline can be found here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php....html#msg19133
Enjoy!
Keithm
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:20 PM   #40
100mpg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klm4755
For those intrested in the bracket for the KLR lighting. A PDF trace outline can be found here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php....html#msg19133
Enjoy!
Keithm
not unless you belong... Has it been resized? I was going to give it a try.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:01 PM   #41
klm4755
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Try this attachment! Hope this helps.
Keithm
Attached Images
 
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:17 PM   #42
TheMan
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I don't have a KLR but have fashioned a few brackets for various things. Very nice work, and that's great you took the pains to document everything (and so well!). Thanks for bothering
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Old 03-14-2007, 06:23 PM   #43
klm4755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMan
I don't have a KLR but have fashioned a few brackets for various things. Very nice work, and that's great you took the pains to document everything (and so well!). Thanks for bothering
No problem, glad to help!
Keithm
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Old 03-14-2007, 07:07 PM   #44
COMET2000
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Great work

Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:06 PM   #45
thecrumb
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Great mod - just want I want to do - aux lights without the big wattage draw...

I really need a drill press and a small band saw - you made it look easy :)

Jim
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:20 PM   #46
GS Bones
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Dear NASA,
Please hire this guy to make sure the next version of the space shuttle is done properly.

Sincerely,
Bones


All I can say is "Wow."
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Old 03-16-2007, 06:04 PM   #47
East Coast
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Wicked Road Sign

I just had a thought. We now have a template all we need is some sheetmetal. I'm betting a road sign would be perfect, its aluminum. About the right thickness. Not that I'm encouraging borrowing them from your local government roads, but most everyone has atleast one somwhere in a garage or shop.
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Old 03-20-2007, 02:53 PM   #48
hondo
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Quote:
Dear NASA,
Please hire this guy to make sure the next version of the space shuttle is done properly.

If you think this is good, you ought to see his other stuff at KLRWorld!
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Old 04-02-2007, 03:47 PM   #49
pro10is
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Possible ready made LED light alternatives...

This mod was excellent, however the rather difficult modification of an H3 style lamp housing may not be necessary.

There are existing driving lights that use MR16 style halogen bulbs such as
the optronics QH-7CC, QH-8CC, and the QH-12IT.

http://www.optronicsinc.com/competition.htm

These are available at:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...goryCode=3151A
and
http://jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Produ...?Ntt=optronics
and
http://jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemB...D:100000201440
(even though JC Whitney has apparently labled it incorrectly)
and
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/s...gDriving01.asp

They also sell them locally. Walmart used to carry them but I haven't seen them for awhile.

Now simply remove the MR16 halogen lamps from these units and replace them with LED based MR16's such as:

(scroll down the site's page)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...i?product=MR16

or
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-x-38-LEDs-White-Light-Bulb-Lamp-WIDE-ANGLE-MR16-12V_W0QQitemZ300095332817QQcategoryZ20706QQtcZphot oQQcmdZViewItem

or
http://autolumination.com/mr16.htm

or
http://www.lumiabulbs.com/catalog/it...10/2669891.htm

etc,

and you have a 12Volt LED based driving light without the need to modify the housing assembly.

I haven't tested this yet but I will soon. There are so many styles of MR16 LED bulbs ranging from less than $10 each to over $30 each. It's hard to decide which style will work best in this application.

It should be noted that no current aftermarket LED lamp (that I know of) can yet supply enough lumens to match a 50 watt MR16 or H3 Halogen lamp. The whole idea here is to improve the driving saftey of the KLR by increasing the area of light provided by the stock headlight so other drivers will see you better day or night while not overloading the capacity of the stock stator output. Currently if you want to do this with typical H3 or MR16 halogen bulbs you need the 300W or 400W stator upgrade. Then you have both safety lighting and sufficient power for additional light for night driving.

If you want to modify a traditional H3 lamp housing there is one plug and play LED option I have found:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V-LEDS-HID-WHITE-HIGH-POWER-LED-FOG-DRL-SHOW-BULB-H3_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33713QQitemZ28010068 7390QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I have no idea how much light these H3 style LED's would supply but it may at least be enough to use an inexpensive conventional driving light as a safety light.

LED lamps should improve enough that they soon may be able to provide enough light output to replace halogens while consuming much less wattage (like HID's). In fact Audi and Lexus have annnounced cars with LED headlights.

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006...headlights.php
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