klm4755

Enclosed are step by step detailed instructions for installation, lessons Learned, and review of the new whiz-bang 400 watt Electrosport stator and regulator . Since I’m ½ way there, I’ll be swapping out my Doo Hicky and cleaning my oil screen also. See the ~90 pictural walk-thru toutorial of the Doo Hicky swap here:
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=950.0
and the oil screen cleaning Step-by-step here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=915.0
My bike is a 2007 KLR650 with 1,600 miles

Start with a little research...You’ll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better...hehehe

First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task

Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.

Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets

remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.

remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless “cap” style fasteners (Allen Key) See: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=878.0

Remove tank bolts

Gas off, remove gas line

rag to catch gas drippings

side covers pry from tank

All the Items removed

set up bike for task....Lots of light

Shop space/tables open...tools available

the doo kit from Eagle Mike...Will need that outer gasket for the stator

Area to open up!

Shifter lever off. Small mart to re-align teeth when re-installing

Take bolt all the way out...rachet wrench works best...wiggle lever off...

set aside with bolt in place as to not lose

one peg bolt off...loosen other...swivel aside as to clear outer case

Like this

sprocket cover next....3x fasteners

set aside

neutral wire....grab with fingers...wiggle straight back..no problem

wire off ....connector exposed

remove kick stand switch cover for better access to wire bundles to thread

loosen outer cover.....NOT inner cover...triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover

loosen all about this much...your fasteners may not be cap heads

notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged

loosen wire bundle bracket

remove bracket...long bolt comes with it

crack the case...try to maintain integrity of gasket...If tears....you will need a new one. Mine tore.

remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers

keep all parts on table with labels

pull outer case straight back...some oil will drip...have rags handy

tie off stator...don’t let wires hold it’s weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal

Attach here

here is is

lay on small table to work

with lots of light

need to remove this bracket screw

and these 3x attach cap bolts

stupid screw phillips head thrashed

get out drill...place rags around work area....tip cover to side

drill slow..don’t let chips fly

use depth gage to predict when manufactured head will be drilled off

there we go! Head off....no damage to bracket

un-thread screw threads with fingers...easy

area where removed

the parts removed...need to find replacement

Metric coarse thread M6-1.0 see: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=721.0 for KLR650 specific fastener data

find torque while at it...use this KLR fastener chart

go to your fastener bin and find a match...use stainless cap head style

The correct matching length 12 mm

remove rubber wire seals...pull/pry off case

like this

new 400 watt stator to install

follow wire path to radiator overflow location on bike. Thread new wires following OEM wires

like this

route thru here

zip tie as you go

disconnect OEM re-connect new

Take old out....Don’t sell on E-bay yet!

need some of this stuff

apply to the wire gaskets...Note the new stator has only 1x wire gasket while the OEM had 2x wire gaskets

place bracket back in place

torque to 61 in-lbs

tighten this new bolt

Check 3x stator torque values....Use 61 in-lbs for a 6mm bolt...

3x bolts torque

prep outer gasket...light coat both sides

ready to reinstall case

finger thread bolts...note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure....carefully tighten fasteners...cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.

toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern...repeat with 68 in-lbs.

All buttoned up
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool

Re-attach wire bracket with long bolt 68 in-lbs

cut zip ties
Now for the regulator. Reach under rear fender to hold nuts. Un-thread bolts 2x. Un-clip wire socket and install new regulator...they included a long unnecessary wire to it’s socket

regulator extra wire location

just eeked it in....contacts the rubber bumpers

loktite the attach fasteners...the blue paste type

add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire

all done
Review and observations:
1. Bike started....
2. No leaks....
3. The headlights dim a lot at idle....light up when throttle is engaged. I don’t believe this was the case with OEM stator.
4. Have left side outer cover gasket handy. I needed one.
5. Have a M6-1.0 10 mm stainless cap screw available.
6. I would not say this is a “plug and play” install
7. Best to include a headlight "cutoff" switch. See step-by-step KLR650 headlight switch easy install here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=204.0
Still some concerns about the mod....Seems like a lot of work and cost for the risk associated with this new Item. I hope Electrosport stands behind there products!
Keithm

Gadget Boy

Excellent!! Thanks so much for doing this for us!!

crazybrit

You forgot the pics showing how to turn on the garage lights and drag out the jackstand :-)) [nice jack btw, is the Craftsman pro?]

Also, this screw is a total pos (mine was the same) but you're much better off just drilling a small pilot hole into the head and using a screw extractor than removing the entire screw head. Plus this leaves the screw intact for when you go to the local hardware store though I guess you've already given the specs :-)

Ranch

Thankyou

Antman

WOW!!! Dude that was impressive to say the least. Every move in pictures , I only wish I had a bike that clean to work on and for that matter a garage that organized to work in . But Noooooooooooo I have teens in my house that keep me for being even close to organized and the whole family just dumps whatever in my garage. But I digress, Anyways that was a great post and I will use it when I install mine and try to fallow your example as close as I can.

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nelgallan

so how are your concerns about the whole thing playing out? was it worth it all?

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K7YFP/M 73's!

"Over the Mountains Of the Moon,Down the Valley of the Shadow,Ride, boldly ride," The shade replied
"If you seek for Eldorado!" E.A.Poe

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Gadget Boy

And have you added farkles or used heated gear to see how the system works?

Thanks for the excellent pictorial!

Speaker

I don't have a KLR, but man that was a great walk through.

klm4755

Follow up to the 400 watt install.
I have only had the opportunity to travel about ~ 50 miles. Not been able to "load the system", however after the trip the bike did fireup so the charging system is working. I don't have the means to measure the voltage while in transit otherwise I would provide the data.
Keithm

klxmack

Nice job on the step by step pictures. But I must offer some constructive criticism on the pan screw removal.
I base my critique on owning almost 20 kawasaki's in the last 25 years as well as working for a Kawasaki dealer and watching master mechanics for the last 19 years.
To remove any panhead phillips screw the cover must be secured. Remove the cover from the engine and placed on the bench on a shop rag. Have someone hold the cover to keep it from spinning on the bench. Use a emgo impact driver (they are very inexpensive compared to screw extractors). If the impact driver doesn't have the correct phillips bit, you can use and 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a socket bit as per my picture.
Preload the driver and smack it with a medium size hammer. Et voila the screw comes out everytime. The impact driver works well on stubborn master cylinder reservour screws as well.
Remember that the driver is only for removal. If you use it to install screws the screw will have to be extracted next time.

Cheers and long live the KLR!

klxmack

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tcate

+1 klxmack. I, too, pulled the case off, worked on a bench, and used the impact driver. Heck of a lot easier than drilling out the screw. Although, well done klm4755 - the next time I'll still have to pull the case and use an impact driver. And you won't.

TC

buildit

Genuinly impressive! I think that is the cleanest shop and bike I've ever seen in the same location! I hope this makes it into the hall of wisdom and know many like myself who will refer to it often. I'm also waiting to hear how the new stator works out. Is there any associated drain on engine performance, I'm trying to figure in my head why the dim lights. You really seemed to have all the bases covered.

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Luke

God keep us safe at home and on the roads ahead. Man-tors' back home again!

itshondo

You think this is impressive, you should see the rest of his (and others) How-Tos at the KLRWorld.com Forum.

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KLRWorld.com Forums

johnjen

This thread has been nominated into the HoW. Does the author wish to make any changes? I can wait for other posters to add their 2 cents as well if needed...

JJ

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PharmerKyle sez
ADV Riders... as wrong as you want to be and as proud as you can be of it.

yz2klr

Very Nicely Done KLM4755!!!

Guy Young

Dude, as the former Technical Editor for the Concours Owners Group (COG), excellent write up.

If the smoke and mirrors aspect of this up-grade (been there before) fades and comes to fruition, I trust your step-by-step instructions will aid those who are mechanically challenged and decide to attempt the mods themselves.

Regardless, most excellent write-up, and thanks for the time spent it took to do it.

Guy

klm4755

johnjen,
Looks A-ok to me as is. Please send it to the corn field...err to the HoW
Keith